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MOWER REPAIR NOTICE: NO REPAIRS ON 2-STROKES


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Sorry folks. But, I am no longer doing repairs on 2-stroke machines. This applies to all small engines that require oil being mixed with the fuel.

 

The profit margin on these items have fallen below what is acceptable. I had noticed that other shops have stopped taking in 2-stroke items in the past 2-3 years. I tried to take in what they would not, but it's become a crap shoot on repairing these machines for a couple of reasons:

 

The carburetors are made in China, and due to EPA standards, many are no longer adjustable. Also, the cost of replacing with new ones runs close to what the machines retail for brand new. You can buy new kits and after spending the money and time, the carb bodies can still have restrictions in them that cannot be removed.

 

So, as a public service, I am offering FREE information on how to perform the repairs yourself at home, on your own time.

 

If you get your trimmer, chainsaw, or any other 2-stroke item out for a new season and it will not start, then follow these steps. They will range from simple and then go into more complicated things that even a novice can do if simply told how to:

 

NOTE: In order to eliminate a clogged air filter, perform ALL of these steps with the air filter removed!!

 

1. DRAIN THE OLD GAS if there's any left in the tank. Also, push the primer bulb several times to clear the carb and fuel lines. BEFORE refilling the tank, while it is still empty, take a coat hanger and snip out a piece about 6-8" long and bend a small hook at one end. Use this hook to retrieve the fuel line out of the filler hole. There should be two or more lines going into the tank on newer machines. One of these lines should have a filter or strainer on the end. If there is none, then shake the tank to see if it the line broke and it's sitting in the tank. If it is, then you need to install NEW fuel line, which can be purchased at Home Depot, mower shops, or most Ace Hardware stores. Make sure you buy the correct size, by bringing a piece of existing line with you.

Try to start the machine. If no success, proceed to step 2.

 

2. Clean or replace the spark plug. You can perform a spark test very easy by spraying ether (starting fluid) into the intake of the carburetor. Hold down the throttle while doing this so the ether will get into the engine's intake. Pull the rope a few times, and if the machine starts up for 1-3 seconds, then you know you have ignition. (NOTE some carburetor clogged can be forced clear by doing this step with the throttle all the way open) If nothing happens, then you need to REPLACE the spark plug first. If nothing after that, then you need to remove the KILL wire from the coil and try it. A lot of novice machanics will assume the coil is bad, (which is costly) and not think to disconnect the kill wire (usually a BLACK wire) to make sure the wire wasn't grounding out, due to a bad ON/OFF switch, or simply some worn insulation, making contact with any metal part of the machine.

 

3. If you do have ignition, but the machine will only run long enough to burn up the ether, then you have carburetor problems. I won't go into how to rebuild these, although I will be making a youtube video on how to do this at a later time.

 

4. REPLACE the carburetor with a new one. They can be found online, or ordered at most Ace Hardware stores, and some mower shops.

 

5. Lastly, if the machine does start, but will not idle up high, then only two things can be the problem....the HI idle adjusting screw (if so equiped) or in many cases, the muffler and/or axhaust intake port could be clogged. Similar to the banana in a tailpipe prank, we've all heard about, if the machine cannot exhaust enough gas, they may idle fine, but they will not "wind up" at hi speeds. In some cases, they may run for several second and then go dead, but start back up in a few seconds after the pressure clears. Also, if the machine will run for a longer period (usually 2-5 minutes) then dies, try replacing the fuel cap. If the fuel cap gets clogged, then this is what happens....the engine runs for a short while, until a vacuum builds in the fuel tank, due to the gas cap not venting and letting air into the tank.

 

If these measures do not fix your problem, then you've just entered into MY WORLD, and should consider buying another new item, rather than wasting your money on trying to have the old one serviced.

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Thanks Subby -

 

Question for you if you don't mind... on a 2 stoke, when using the primer, I get pure fuel coming up from the tank, but bubbles in the line coming from the carb to the primer bulb.

 

Am I correct in assuming I have a massive air leak in the carb somewhere and it's pretty much toast?

 

Thanks.

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Do you recommen using non ethanol fuel in lawn equipment ?

It certainly doesn't hurt to use it, but I don't stress it to customers as much as using FRESH gas. Fact is, I have used regular gas in my own equipment ever since E10 came onto the scene, and by just following some simple measures, my equipment raely needs repairs done to the carbs. For larger riding mowers, install a shut off valve on the fuel line. When storing for a while, (as long as the gas tank is more than 1/3 full), shut off the gas, and drain the carb bowl. This prevents gumming. On 2-stroke machines, drain the fuel tank, but leave residual gas in the carb by not clearing it with the primer bulb. (Clear it before refilling the tank for the next season. There's not much fuel in a spring/diaphragm carb, so most of it will evaporate, leaving the oil inside which can actually lengthen the life of the plastic, rubber and mylar components. Using higher octane will NOT help anything.....just make you spend more on gas than you need to.

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Thanks Subby -

 

Question for you if you don't mind... on a 2 stoke, when using the primer, I get pure fuel coming up from the tank, but bubbles in the line coming from the carb to the primer bulb.

 

Am I correct in assuming I have a massive air leak in the carb somewhere and it's pretty much toast?

 

Thanks.

In short, not necessarily, as I notice bubbles often on the return line. Bubbles on the intake line, means you've got leak in the line itself. However, if in doubt, rebuilding these carbs usually only requires replacing the fuel pump (as it's often referred to, it's the diaphragm that sits under one side of the carb, against a rocker lever that is spring loaded), and in some cases, the valve sheet (which is a mylar or other synthetic film on the the other side of the carb). Note: on this side is where the fuel comes into the carb, and there is a small filter screen that can be clogged in many cases of fuel starvation. Either clean, or replace the screen, or remove altogether. Its primary purpose is to keep debris from entering into the carb should the intake fuel line filter break off in the tank.

 

In addition, since we're on the subject, here's how to route the fuel lines on primer carbs....

 

First, we must understand that the OUT fuel line from the carb is the one that only goes a short way into the tank and has no filter on it. Its job is to pressurize the tank, which will send fuel up into the INTAKE line, to the carburetor. As a general rule of thumb, you can identify which is IN and OUT on the carb by looking at the IDLE adjusting screw. Where the screw comes into contact with the carb, this is the INTAKE side where you'll encounter the filter screen. The other side is where the fuel pump is located, but there is no nipple here. Ergo, the nipple that is closest to the outside of the carb is usually the OUT nipple. On a remote primer (where the primer bulb is not directly part of the carb) you always route to the IN side of the primer from the OUT part of the carb. Remember, the out portion and any priming bulbs is to RETURN fuel/air back into the tank, not to send fuel into the carb. Knowing this, then you can rightfully assume that air bubbles on the return line is quite normal. ;)

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Ah, cool, thanks Subby!

No problem, and like I told everyone in the initial thread, since I no longer provide the service on 2-strokes, the least I can do is let everyone know what to do to see if they're worth keeping or not (or paying for a repair). Good luck to you!

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Do you work on Wankel engines?

Funny man!! You know i don't work on ROTARY engines!! (Speak American when you say that!) :lol:

 

How you been??

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Hey buddy.

 

Doing well. We need to have lunch soon.

Yes, we do. I was thinking the same thing the other day when I was over your way. Some fishing would be nice too if I can ever get a break.

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One final word before I head off to Vegas for a week. I will be gone all next week, but will be back and open on April 14th. Feel free to call while I'm away and leave a message. I will get back with you when I get back home. In the meantime, if your mower doesn't start up this year, please do the following:

 

Drain the old gas is if it had any in it (loosen the bottom bolt on the carb and allow remaing gas to leach out until dry. Tighten bolt, THEN refill tank. Pull spark plug, clean it with a wire brush (even an old toothbrush and solvent is fine), regap to .025", reinstall and try again.

 

On riding mowers that won't turn over well....CHECK THE BATTERY FIRST!! Charge at 2.0-10 amps. Never 20 on a stored battery. Make sure there is adequate ventilation, or better yet, charge battery OUTSIDE. Pop caps first, and check cells. Cells that are low, add only DISTILLED water to level out. Then charge. If nothing, wiggle and shake the parking brake lever, and blade engage lever to free up any stuck safety switches. If all this fails, please call me and leave a message. Thanks folks!!

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