Another TIP for you grass cutters out there.....

[+subby1]

You folks try to keep this in mind-

 

10% ethanol in gasoline:

 

While there is one known GOOD concept to blending ethanol into gasoline (higher octane results), there remains some down sides also....

 

1. Ethanol mixes with water, even attracts moisture. This can lead to a "separation" of the blended fuel, in which actual water can settle and cause rusting of engine parts. With the standard PUSH MOWER, this presents a different problem, and quite frankly, there isn't much you can do about it. Most smaller push mowers use a rubber seal that the carburetor needle goes into (sort of like how your toilet works) This rubber seal is called a "seat". These rubber seats will swell to the point of either not allowing enough gas to enter into the carburetor, or "pushing the cut off point of gas flow" to such a small amount that the engine will run weak, if at all. Tip here- purge your carb of all fuel before Winter storage. By this, I mean, after you've run the mower out of gas, a small amount of gas will still remain in the carb. There is a bolt on the bottom of the carb, usually a 1/2" size. Loosen this bolt to remove ALL gas from the system for storage.

 

2. Riding lawn mowers are a little different in the fact that there is an actual HOLE in the gas cap. Since the engines and carbs are larger, most do not use the rubber seat, but rather a rubber tipped needle. So, rather than flushing all the gas from the system, simply clean the gas cap with a rag soaked in carb cleaner or alcohol, then SEAL the hole with a piece of duct tape. This will prevent moisture from entering into the system. If you use a decent stabilizer in your gas (StaBil is a good additive), then when Spring comes around, remove the duct tape so the cap can vent again. This will keep moisture from entering the carb (which can actually rust out the bowl on your carburetor).

 

3. A lot of people I know think that "changing the spark plug" will fix everything. This is half correct- in a 2-stroke engine that requires oil to be mixed with the gas, then YES, spark plug fouling can be a problem, especially if too much oil is added to the mix (causing lots of smoke from the muffler)...however, in 4 stroke engines, oil is not present, so fouling of spark plugs is very uncommon. 95% of all 4 stroke machines not running is because of a dirty carburetor, as the spark plug can last for years and not present a problem.

 

4. In 2-stroke engines, it is advisable to run them completely DRY before storing, because the gasoline will evaporate over time, while the oil will remain. This can make one heck of a mess. So, purge the blowers and weed eaters before storage. Even running straight gas with no oil for no longer than 20 seconds will stop this from happening.

 

Please take note of these advisement's, and your machines will run for years and need little repair. And as always, change the oil in your mowers every season.

 

Thank you for your time. And while I cherish your business, I think it's a good idea to tell you how to avoid needing repairs every season. This will save you lots of money down the road.

 

For those of you who did not see this, or did not heed the tips, I look forward to doing business with you on an extended basis!

 

[lucky64]

Okay, confused. I just go to the gas station and buy the gas and pour it in. If I have to do all that stuff, then I guess I will be seeing you here shortly.

[Guard dad]

Subby is an expert on gas.

 

 

 

[lucky64]

Subby is an expert on gas.

 

 

 

I heard you were...Is your finger getting sore yet?

[Guard dad]

I heard you were...Is your finger getting sore yet?

 

I have no idea as to what you are referring.

 

 

 

[lucky64]

[+subby1]

You guys are Krazy!!!

[Real Estate]

You folks try to keep this in mind-

 

10% ethanol in gasoline:

 

While there is one known GOOD concept to blending ethanol into gasoline (higher octane results), there remains some down sides also....

 

1. Ethanol mixes with water, even attracts moisture. This can lead to a "separation" of the blended fuel, in which actual water can settle and cause rusting of engine parts. With the standard PUSH MOWER, this presents a different problem, and quite frankly, there isn't much you can do about it. Most smaller push mowers use a rubber seal that the carburetor needle goes into (sort of like how your toilet works) This rubber seal is called a "seat". These rubber seats will swell to the point of either not allowing enough gas to enter into the carburetor, or "pushing the cut off point of gas flow" to such a small amount that the engine will run weak, if at all. Tip here- purge your carb of all fuel before Winter storage. By this, I mean, after you've run the mower out of gas, a small amount of gas will still remain in the carb. There is a bolt on the bottom of the carb, usually a 1/2" size. Loosen this bolt to remove ALL gas from the system for storage.

 

2. Riding lawn mowers are a little different in the fact that there is an actual HOLE in the gas cap. Since the engines and carbs are larger, most do not use the rubber seat, but rather a rubber tipped needle. So, rather than flushing all the gas from the system, simply clean the gas cap with a rag soaked in carb cleaner or alcohol, then SEAL the hole with a piece of duct tape. This will prevent moisture from entering into the system. If you use a decent stabilizer in your gas (StaBil is a good additive), then when Spring comes around, remove the duct tape so the cap can vent again. This will keep moisture from entering the carb (which can actually rust out the bowl on your carburetor).

 

3. A lot of people I know think that "changing the spark plug" will fix everything. This is half correct- in a 2-stroke engine that requires oil to be mixed with the gas, then YES, spark plug fouling can be a problem, especially if too much oil is added to the mix (causing lots of smoke from the muffler)...however, in 4 stroke engines, oil is not present, so fouling of spark plugs is very uncommon. 95% of all 4 stroke machines not running is because of a dirty carburetor, as the spark plug can last for years and not present a problem.

 

4. In 2-stroke engines, it is advisable to run them completely DRY before storing, because the gasoline will evaporate over time, while the oil will remain. This can make one heck of a mess. So, purge the blowers and weed eaters before storage. Even running straight gas with no oil for no longer than 20 seconds will stop this from happening.

 

Please take note of these advisement's, and your machines will run for years and need little repair. And as always, change the oil in your mowers every season.

 

Thank you for your time. And while I cherish your business, I think it's a good idea to tell you how to avoid needing repairs every season. This will save you lots of money down the road.

 

For those of you who did not see this, or did not heed the tips, I look forward to doing business with you on an extended basis!

 

 

Thanks

[+subby1]

Oh, and here's another one I forgot- If you have a riding mower, take the battery OUT and set it on a piece of plywood inside your garage (NEVER on the concrete floor) and it should not be dead when you get ready for the season. If that is too much work, then just remove the NEGATIVE cable from the post. Either way works well. Even with your key switched off, a battery will slowly drain just from being hooked up to the heavy cables and all of that copper wiring. Removing the negative cable will stop the slow "leak" of voltage. Either terminal will work, just since you should always remove the NEGATIVE first, just take that one off. If you try to loosen the POSITIVE one first, then any part of the frame your wrench touches, you'll see some sparks fly, because the whole frame is charged as long as the negative cable is hooked up.